Ruffler.



1 Patented May 6, I902. w. R. PARSONS.

RUFFLEB.

(Application filed Dec. 2, 1899.

(No Model.)

UNITED STATES PATE OFFICE.

WINSLOW R. masons, or onroAeo, ILLINOIS.

RUFFLER.

sPEoIFIcATIoN forming part of Letters Patent No. 699, 29, a ed y 1902-Appllcation filed December 2, 1899. Serial No. 738.964. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.

Be it known that I,WINsLow R. PARSONS,

ruftlers for sewing-machines; and it has for Her.

some of its principal objects the production of a rufller whereintheruffler-blade and parts moving therewith are so mounted or supportedas to avoid practically all rubbing together or friction between partsin the reciprocation of the blade, while at the same time the blade andconnected parts are supported so as to reciprocate in a substantiallyrectilinear path and practicallyas though moving within" guideways; toprovide a ruffler wherein the throw or reach of the ruffler -blade bearsa novel relation to needle and such throw is lengthened or shortened ina peculiar Way best adapted to produce perfect ruffles; to provide animproved construction in that part of the ruffler constituting thepresser-foot, which is adapted to cooperate with the rut.- fling-bladein such manner as to receive and hold more perfectly the fabric; toprovide a simple and improved holding device for look ing the adjustabletappet, and, in general, to simplify and improve the details ofconstruction in such manner as to produce a convenient, practical, andextremely durable device of the character referred to. I

The invention consists in the matters hereinafter set forth and moreparticularly pointed out in the appended claims, and the same will bereadily understood from the following description, reference being hadto the 3C.

companying drawings, in which- Figure 1 is a view in side elevation of aruffler embodying my invention. Fig. 2 is a similar view of the devicelooking at the opposite side thereof. Fig.3 is a plan view of the ruf-Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view of the parts which are most immediatelyconcerned in the formation ofthe ruffle shown in changed position fromthat shown in Fig. 2.

Referring to said drawings, A designates the base or frame plate of theruffier, which in the particular embodiment shown herein isapproximately L-shaped in plan view and provided with suitable meanswhereby it may blade proper, 0

be rigidly attached to the particular machine for which the ruftler isdesigned, consisting in the present instance of a set-up portion a,formed integrally with the rear end of said plate or that end towardwhich the fabric moves when passing through the rufl'ler and providedwith a slot or recess a for engagement with a suitable set-screw orother holding device upon the machine.

A A designate a pair of standards arranged to rise from the base-plate,shown in the present embodiment as arranged near the respective endsthereof and approximately in longitudinal alinement with each other, oneof said standards A being formed integrally with the set-up portion a,while'the other, A, is formed integrally with the inner side margin ofthe body of the base-plate, as indicated clearly in the drawings, a B Bdesignate two pendulum=links respectively pivoted'attheir upper ends tothe upper portions of the standards A A the link B being secured to theright-hand sideof the standard as viewed by the operator, so as topermit its lower end to swing past the set-up portion a, while the linkB is conveniently arranged at the opposite side of the standard A 0designates as a whole the rufller-blade, which is arranged to occupy andreciprocate within the angle of the L-shaped base-plate and comprises arelatively rigid sheet-metal body 0', provided with upstanding ears 0 c,with which are'pivotally engaged the lower ends of the pendulum-links BB, respectively, and to the under side'of which body is rigidly attachedthe spring-metal rufiier- In the particular embodiment 'shown herein therufl'ler-bladesupport C is provided at'its side margin adjacent to thebase-plate with an integral extension 0 which is bent or set up adjacentto its union with the main body sufficiently to bring it above the topsurface of the base-plate and is then extended horizontally rearwardabove said base-plate to its point of connection with the link B, thesaid extension being deflect ed laterally sufiiciently to avoidinterfering with the standard A in its reciprocation, as willhereinafter more fully appear.

D designates the separating-blade, which consists, as usual, of athinspring sheet-metal blade arranged to underlie the ruffier-blade,

thereto and arranged to extend thence longi-- tudinally beneath theruftler-blade.

The rufiler-blade proper, C is arranged to extend obliquely downward andbackward, so as to bear yieldingly against the separat-. ing-platethroughoutits reciprocation, being curved downward slightly to insure amore certain engagement of its toothed free end with thefabric and soshaped that it will maintain its pressure upon the fabricnotwithstanding the slight rising-and-falling movement of theruffler-blade body incident to its reciprocation upon the link-supports.

Describing now the means whereby the ruffler-blade is reciprocated fromthe needlearm, E designates a tappet-lever pivotally attached betweenits ends to the upper part of the standard A, at the side thereofopposite that to which the pendulum-link B is attached, provided at itsrearwardly-extending end with the usual yoke e,adapted for engagementwith a suitable projection upon the needlearm. The opposite end of saidlever is extended somedistance beyond the point of pivotal support andis made relatively broad, with a curved end margin 6, so as to have anapproximately segmental form. The upper portion of the pendulum-link Bis provided at its rearside with extensions 1) 1), upon which are formedintegral tappet-ears b? b ,respectively, which are bent to stand atright angles outwardly from the plane of the link, so as tostand in thepath of the tappet-lever, at the upper and lower sides of the latter,re-

spectively, and at such distances apartas to provide a determined amountof lost motion between the lever and'pendulum-link.

In order to regulate or vary the length of throw of the ru fIier-bladeJprovide means for, in effect,varying the width of that part of thetappet-lever whichcontacts with the tappetshoulders. a

F designates an eccentric-shaped tappetblock pivotal] y secured to theside of the tappet-lever in position to engage the tappetshoulder bofthe pendulum-linln Said tap pet-block is provided with novel andimproved means for holding it in adjusted po sition, comprising anintegral holding-armf,

which extends forward longitudinally of the tappet lever, to the endthereof, and is pro1 vided with a returned end portionf,arranged toembrace the curved end margin of the le ver, the curve of the latterbeing made con- -returned portion.

centric with the pivot f of the tappet-block. In order to lock theholding-arm rigidly and securely in any exact position of adjustment, Iprovide a set-screw f which is threaded through the holding-armat apoint opposite the returnedend portion f, so as to impinge against andclamp the end of the tappet-lever between the end of the set-screw andsaid of the tappet-block and its diameter are such that when in oneposition (in .the present instance when the holding-arm isswungto itslowermost limit, although obviously the relation of the eccentricity tothe pivot-might be reversed) it will be wholly within the width of thatpart of the lever upon which it is mounted, with its upper margin flushwith that of the lever; but as it is oscillated by the swinging upwardof the holding-arm its upper margin will ,be graduallyv projected abovethe edge of the tappet-leverin position to engage the uppertappet-shonlder b, and by reducing the amount of lost motionimpart alonger throw to the ruftler-blade.

In order to insure both delicacy of adjustrnent and positiveness inholding capacity,

the end of the set-screw f is desirably made pointed, so as-to seatitself slightlyin the surface against which it acts, although thepointing oflthe screw is not indispensable, an ordinary screw holdingfirmly.

It maybe noted in this connection that the improved means of holding thet-appet-block in adjusted position may be adapted to rufflers of otherconstruction and, in fact, to other sewing-ma-.

chine attachmentsgenerally.

In the operation of the ruffier the millingblade upon each reciprocationgathers a certain length of the rufiling-strip and forces it The shapeor eccentricity in the form of a fold or gather between the presser-footof the rufiier and the separatingblade. Oneof the essentials of asuccessful rnffier is that the fold when thus formed by the feeding-inmovement of the milling-blade shall be firmly gripped and heldfrictionally, so as not to be withdrawn by thereturn movement of theblade, it being understood that while the blade does not'begin-itsretracting movement until after the needle has en tered the fabric, yetthe blade being much .wider than the needle the fold must be. heldthroughout the whole width of the blade or the cloth is liabletobedrawn-back on both sides of the needle, although held at one point bythe latter. invention contemplates the provision of an improved presser-footG,made of resilient sheet metal and comprising an upper part g,which is rigidlysecured at its forward end to that part of the mainframethrough which the needle-aperture a: is formed and which at its rearedge is doubled on itselfto form a returned portion ,9, that extendsforward beneath the upper part g: at a little distance The free frontend will then yield therefrom. readilyas the fabric is forced beneaththe foot by the rufiler-blade, while its rear or To prevent this, thepresent- IXO doubled and'less resilient portion will maintain acontinuous-pressure on the fabric and hold the latter from being drawnback by the ruffler-blade when the latter is retracted. In

practice I find it desirableto'extend the free end of the springfoot-blade slightly beyond the needle-aperture 00,01 throat ofthe'ruffler, as best indicated in Figs. 1 and 2. In order to lessen thetendency to 'release the fabricin rear-of the needle by the thrusting inof;

the ruffler-blade 'and tuck, I set up that portion of the-foot whichoverlies the end of the separating-blade and receives the fold of theruffle slightly above that portionimmediatel y in rear thereof, sothatwhen the fold' and ruffler-blade are underneath the'spring-foot theportion of the foot in rear of the fold will theneedle, so that thelatterin descending pierced and'sewed through the fold itself-instead'ofbetween the latter. I'have discovered thata very inuchsmoother and-morenniform'ruffle' is produced when each fold or crimpis so laid'that thesewing points'or ends of the stitches are always placed between thesuccessive folds, and I- have further discovered that it ispracticableto do this with all reasonable'degrees 0r variations offullness by so constructing the rufl'ler that the blade thereof willalways'begin'to gatherthe fabric at a p'ointapproximatel'y coincidentwith the line of the needle and will form'the ruffle en tirely in rearof this line, diiferencesin-fullness'orsize of the gathers being formedentirely; by' varying the throw of the ruftlerblade beyond the needle.

Referring to Fig.- 2,- in which therufflingblade is shown as fullyretracted,-it will be seen that its free acting end stands just in line'orvertic'allybeneath the throat-and-needle point, which startingposition will beal in rear of the needle a distance equal'to thethrow ofthe-rufiier blade and that that part of the ruffling strip piercedby'the needle is practically-flat and-'ungathered. As the needle risesand after it has left the fabric that" portion intervening between thepoint at which the'preceding stitch ,piercesit is gathered by thefeeding-in movement of the ruf- -fler-bladefand held in thisvpositionjust at In other Words, the stitch is fully formed in the clothbefore the formation ofthe ruffle band-guide h formed in support.

the ruffler constructed as described has been sufficiently indicated inconnectionwith the description to befully begins,but the'stitch is nottightened until after the 'ruffle is fully formed, whereby there is butone stitch to'each plait'andi that stitch is invariably at a pointbetween each pla'it,

and the ruffling-blade is not withdrawn until the stitch is tightened,the result being that the ruffling-blade is prevented'drawing the goodswithit in making the backstroke.

Obviously this results in laying the upper thread of the stitch smoothlyover each ruflie' or fold and also'in placing the endof each It is to bestitch exactly between the folds. noted that the feeding forward of thefabric by the feed-dogs of 'the machine brings the band or underlyingfabric (in case the rufiiew is simultaneously sewed to the fabric, as isusual)*into proper relation to the gather be 'fore the tension tightensthe stitch, the fabric below the 'separating plate following up,

as it were, the gather formed by the ruffiingblade at each stitch beforethe stitch tightens. Obviously it is necessary to slot theruffiing-blade from its acting edge forwardly opposite the needle adistance-sufficient to permit the longest throw of said blade rearwardlywithout engaging theneedle, as shown clearlyatc inFig. 3.

The ruffler is shown as provided with the formed in a single plate H,secured to the upper side-of the ruffler-b'lade body, andthe theseparating-plate The operation of understood, and 'need not,therefore,be "repeated. It is to be note'd,-howeve'r-, that'the usualguides or gages for guiding the several" too peculiar method ofsuppor'tingthe rufflingblade enables the latter to reciprocate iuasubstantially rectilinear path without the employment 0fguideways' orguides of a"ny'na-' ture, thus obviating all rubbing together of-parts,'which not only createsan unnecessary amount of friction, butleads to the rapid deterioration or wearing out ofthe ruffler, therebypreventing accurate ruffling, for it will be obvious that when the partsrubbing'to gether become dry theycommence to wear use. This resultisth'e more certain to hapand out, which added friction varies thefullnessof the ruffle, making it impossible toido' regular and 'evenWork. This is one of themost serious defects of the rufflers now inruffling-bladeupon a pendulum or link support; but'iheret'ofore t hishas-been done by Supporting thebla'defi'om a single-penduluml-ink andguiding'its free end by thefuseof 'fixed' guides upon theframe,thus'failing'to remedy the'difliculty." It is further obvious thatwhen'but-asingle pendulum-link support is used the path of reciprocationof the rufller-blade will not approach a rectilinear motion. In thisconnection it is to be noted that while it is desirable that thestandards from which the pendulum links are supported be located at aconsiderable distance apart longitudinally, yet it is not essential thatthey be located as shown herein, but, on the contrary, they may bedifierently located to adapt the rufller to difierent machines orotherwise.

The advantages of forming the ruffle in the peculiar manner incident tothe present device have been stated in connection with the descriptionof the manner in which the ruffle is formed.

While I have herein shown and described what I deem to be a preferredembodiment of my invention, yet it will be understood that the detailsthereof are susceptible of modification without departing from theinvention, and I do not, therefore, wish to be limited to the precisedetails shown except as made the subject of specific claims.

I claim as my invention 1. In a rufller, the combination of a pair ofseparated pendulum-links, separate pivots suspending said links, meanssupporting said pivots, a ruflier-blade, and pivots, each formingaconnection 'of its own between said blade and links, and means foractuating said blade and-links, substantially as described.

2-. In a ruffler, the combination with a main frame of a pair ofpendulum.- links, pivots therefor separated from each other on saidframe, a rufiler-blade pivotally secured to the links and supportedthereby, and means for reciprocating said blade, substantially asdescribed.

3. In a ruflier, the combination with a main frame, a ruflier-blade, apair of links pivotally depending from the opposite ends of said mainframe and forming a vibratory support for aruffiing-blade, the toothedend of which is suspended at a point between said links and anactuating-lever for reciprocating said blade, substantially asdescribed.

4. In a rufiier, the combination with a main frame, of a pair ofpendulum-links pivotally supported from said main frame, a rufflingbladepivotally suspended at a point between said links, and means forreciprocating said blade and adjusting the movement thereof,substantially as described.

5. In a ruffler, the combination with a main frame provided withupstanding supports separated from each other, of a pair ofpendulumlinks respectively pivoted to each of said supports,'arufiier-blade pivotally secured to the depending ends of the links andsuspended therefrom, and means for oscillating one of said links toreciprocate said ruftler-blade, substantially as described.

6. In a rufiier, the combination with a main frame provided withupstanding supports arranged opposite each other at a distance apart, apair of pendulum -links pivotally supported from said upstandingsupports, a rufflingblade pivotally supported by said links, anactuating-lever and a pivot therefor common to one of said supports,means reciprocating said blade and for regulating its length of stroke,substantially as described.

7. A ruftler, comprising a frame approximately L-shaped in its mainportion, standards at opposite ends thereof, pendulum-links respectivelypivotally depending from each standard, a rufiler-blade supportpivotally suspended by and at a point between said links and arrangedwithin the angle of the L-shaped frame, a rufller-blade carried by saidsupport, a tappet-lever pivoted to one of the standards,tappet-shonlders upon one of the adjacent pendulum-links in the path ofoscillation of said tappet-lever, and means for varying the amount oflost motion between tappet-lever and pendulum link, substantially. asdescribed.

8. In a sewing machine attachment, the combination with anactuating-lever adapted to engage the needle-bar, of pivoted adjustingdevices on said lever, and means for looking said devices in adjustedposition, com-' prising an arm pivotally mounted on the lever, amarginal edge on the lever concentric with the pivot-point, and aset-screw threaded through the pivoted arm and impinging upon saidconcentric edge of the lever, the extremity of the arm being foldedaround said edge opposite said screw, substantially as described.

9. In a ruflier, the combination with a tappet-lever and a tappet-blockpivotally-mounted thereon, of means for adjustablylocking saidtappet-block in position comprising a holding-arm connected with thetappet-block, a segment-surface upon said tappet -lever, over which saidholding-arm is arranged to sweep, having a marginal edge formedconcentrically with the pivot of the holding-arm and around whichconcentric margin the free end of the holding-arm is returned, and asetscrew threaded through said holding-arln-and arranged to clamp theedge of the segment between its impinging end-and the returned end ofthe holding-arm, as and for the purposes described. v

10. In a ruffler, the combination with the main frame, a ruflier-bladeprovided with a toothed end and movably mounted in said frame, meanspermanently limiting the back stroke of the toothed edge of said bladeto la point on a line across said edge and through the needle hole,means reciprocating said blade to form a rufifle after the needle hasmade a stitch, and means withdrawing said blade from the formed ruflleafter the stitch is fully tightened, substantially as described.

11. In a rufller the combination with the dle-hole, means ofreciprocating said blade to form a ruffle after the needle has made astitch, means withdrawing said blade from the formed ruffle after thestitch is fully tightened and means for varying the forward stroke ofthe ruffling-blade, substantially as set forth.

12. In a ruffler,-the combination with the main frame,ofa'ruftling-blade movably mou nted thereon with its toothed endpermanently stopping on a line transversely thereof and approximatelyacross the needle-hole when the blade is retracted, means forreciprocating said blade to project its toothed end beyond theneedle-hole, and means for varying the forward stroke of the blade,substantially as described.

13. In a ruffler, the combination with a main frame, provided witha'pair of depending pendulu m-links, parallel with and separated fromeach other, of a ruffler-blade pivotally supported by said links, anactuating-lever for reciprocating said ruffling-blade, the clothengagingend of the ruffling-blade extending approximately to the path of theneedle, when the blade is retracted, and an adjustable contact appliedin connection with the actuatinglever for varying the amount of advanceof the blade beyond the needle on the upstroke of the lever,substantially as described.

14. In a ruffler, the combination with a main frame, of parallel linkspivoted to said frame at points separated from each other, arufflingblade pivotally supported from said links, an actuating-leverfor advancing and returning the rattling-blade through the medium ofcontact-points, and an adjusting-lever having means to engage thecontact-point which is engaged on the upstroke of the actuating-lever soas to advance the ruffling-blade a greater or less distance and as toengage the contactpoint which is engaged on the downstroke of theactuating-lever soas to invariably'return V the blade to a positionwhere the points of its teeth will be substantially coincident with thepath of the needle transversely to the line of motion of the blade,substantially as described.

15. In a ruffler, the combination with the frame-plate provided with twoupstanding supports, of a ruffler-blade carrier arranged adjacent to oneof said supports, a link pivotally suspending the ruflier-blade fromthat support, another link depending from the other support, anextension rigid with the ruffier-blade support projecting across theframeplate and pivotally suspended from the second link, and aruftler-blade secured to said carrier, substantially as described.

16. In a ruffier, the combination with an L- shaped frame-plateprovided'with an upstanding support at the inner side of the leg of theL, a similar support at the foot of the L, a ruflier-blade carriermounted in the angle of the L, a link dependiug from the inner side ofthe first support and pivotally suspending theruftler-blade carrier, anextension in the carrier projecting across the frame-plate to theopposite side of the second support, a link depending from the latterand pivotally supporting said extension, and a rufller-blade secured tosaid carrier, substantially as described.

17. In a ruffler, the combination with a frame-plate A provided with astruck-up portion a projecting rearwardly from the foot of the plate andadapted to be attached to a sewing-machine, an upstanding support A atthe- WINSLOW R. PARSONS.

Witnesses:

HENRY W. CARTER, A. H. GRAVES.

